24 hours in Assisi

I have had several visits to Saint Francis’ city of peace — Assisi. High up in the Umbrian hills, Assisi is a 3,000-year-old city with beautiful views, excellent food, and a vibrant religious culture. 

To have 24 hours in this city is a blessing too good to pass up. If I could design the perfect day in Assisi, this is what I would do.

At the base of the mountain

The perfect day in Assisi begins not in the town itself, but at the base of the hill on which it rests in the Basilica di Santa Maria degli Angeli — the Basilica of St. Mary of the Angels. This Basilica houses one of the major features of Assisi: the portiuncula or “little portion.” 

Toward the beginning of his ministry, St. Francis received orders from the Lord in a dream to “re-build my church.” Taking this rather literally, Francis looked to the nearby chapel which had fallen into disrepair. This small chapel, known as the portiuncula, is now housed within the large basilica having been built brick-by-brick by Francis himself. 

Francis’ mission was much larger than this little chapel; his efforts to rebuild the Church spread far and wide as his order grew and spread. After your visit to the Basilica and the little church within, there is a bus that will take you up the mountain to the town of Assisi proper. Once at the top, I recommend enjoying a cappuccino and a cornetti (an Italian pastry) from one of the many scenic spots perfect for taking in the striking view.

Saint Carlo Acutis

The next stop on your visit will take you to one of the youngest saints of our Church, Carlo Acutis. His body lies in the Church of Santa Maria Maggiore — or Saint Mary Major — in Assisi. This young, modern saint had a passion for the Eucharist and built an entire website dedicated to helping people learn about Eucharistic miracles. 

When you enter Santa Maria Maggiore, you do not immediately see St. Carlo, but the tabernacle. In death, as in life, this young saint constantly points others to Christ present in the Eucharist. While many rush to gawk at the incorrupt saint, I recommend pausing a moment in prayer before moving on to pay your respects. Dressed in his jeans and Nike sneakers, St. Carlo is a good reminder that holiness is not just for mendicant medieval friars, but for all of us today. 

Saint Clare of Assisi 

As you continue to wander the streets of Assisi, take some time to visit another of the resident saints, St. Clare. Her church, made of regional pink granite stands beautifully feminine against the gorgeous view. 

Inside, you can visit her relics and even see some locks of her beautiful hair. St. Clare was a wealthy noblewoman’s daughter, renowned for her beauty, and many thought she would marry. Clare, however, had other plans. She became the founding member of the Poor Clares, trading her beautiful hair for a coarse veil and her fine clothes for a simple smock.

After a visit to St. Clare, enjoy some delicious Umbrian food for lunch. They are especially known for their cinghiale — wild boar — and black truffles. 

Afternoon

In the afternoon, make your way to the massive Basilica de San Francesco — the basilica of Saint Francis. Still a functioning monastery of Franciscan friars, the Basilica has housed the relics of the humble friar since 1230. Inside, you will find three different levels. 

The lower church — or middle level — was built first, in the Umbrian Romanesque style, while the upper church — or top level — was built in a French Gothic style. The lowest layer is the crypt, which is home to the relics of St. Francis. There, visitors from around the world visit this beloved saintly friar who has been a symbol of peace with nature and mankind for centuries.

Take your time in the Basilica. Look at the incredible frescos from artists such as Giotto, Cimabue, Pietro Lorenzetti, Simone Martini, and Cesare Sermei. The colors, made from local pigments and exotic stones, are still shockingly bright. The grandeur, detail, and intricacy of the paintings and windows deserves a long, hard look. If you’re in the market for souvenirs, the Franciscan friars run a small gift shop where they sell books, religious items, homemade teas, and other food-stuffs. 

Bonus!

Depending on how much time you have spent in each location, your day might be about over. Time to have a glass of Chianti and a nice dinner and call it a day. However, if the day is not quite spent, I recommend taking a hike up the mountain to St. Francis’ hermitage — Subiaco. It’s a bit of a climb, not suitable for elderly or unathletic visitors, but well worth the visit. Many pilgrims make the trip barefoot, praying in silence and taking time to bask in nature. 

Deep in the woods, away from the rush of the town below, St. Francis prayed, building himself a heritage and sleeping with only a rock for a pillow. Up here, you can wander the mountain paths to other small huts built by his followers, and offer some quiet prayers yourself. 

While Assisi is beautiful and full of grace and peace, it is not until I visited Subiaco that I understood who Francis really was. The little friar who prayed the Canticle of the Creatures lived out in the dirt among them, giving up his worldly wealth for a cathedral of leaves and sky and a bed of roots and earth.